Trekking to Machu Picchu, Peru (17th to 31st October)

We decided to do the Salkantay trek independently, with no guide and no donkeys.  We set off from Cusco very early in the morning (5.45am) and quickly found a bus to take us the first two hours of our journey for just £5. This bus dropped us off where the tarmac ran out, but soon another bus came along and took us the last 11km up a dirt road to the village of Mollepata. We found a restaurant in the village to get a good breakfast at, in preparation for the tough day ahead. The rucksacks we were carrying were very heavy (15 to 20 kg) with everything we needed for the next few days (tent, sleeping bags, sleeping mats,  camping stove,  pans, food, clothes, torches, water filter).  Then it was time to get going, so we checked the map, read the route description and set off in blazing sunshine. The path was uphill and we were soon covered in sweat, but it was good to be back in the outdoors. 

We wound our way up the dirt path for a few hours until lunch time, taking photos and amusing ourselves with the sight of a man chasing after his escaped horse. We didn' t see any other trekkers but did meet a few barking dogs who chased us for a bit!  We stopped for a break by a big irrigation channel (concrete stream) and met a local man. We thought we knew our route from here but our map wasn't very detailed (1:115 000) and the local man was sure which path we should take.  So we took his advice and headed for the top of the mountain on a grassy path. A few hundred metres later another local confirmed that this was the right way to Soraypampa.  The path wound up and round the mountain and we weren't sure if it was the right way, but we had our tent and decided we could pitch up on the side of the path if it got too late. 

 Finally we rounded a corner and the campsite came into sight. Unfotunately the weather had changed and instead of sunshine, we were now in the middle of a rain and hailstorm. The path seemed to go on and on, with our packs feeling heavier and heavier, until we finally arrived in camp (3950 metres) as it was getting dark. We had walked for 8 hours, gained 1300 metres in height, walked 25 kilometres and felt exhausted. We quickly put up the tent, had a bite to eat and collapsed into our sleeping bags about 8pm. We slept well apart from being woken about midnight by a barking dog running into our tent, we think it was chasing another dog and didn't see our tent.

The next morning we felt a little stiff, but rested for the day ahead. We put on our packs and headed up hill on a snaking path, that wound up to the mountain pass (the highest point on the trek). We stopped for lunch at the pass (4600 metres) and worked out we had covered 10 kilometres, a hard but rewarding climb. The views from here gave us glimpses of beautiful snow capped mountains, but the clouds kept covering them up.

From here the second half of the day (10km) was downhill all the way to camp. We passed through a few small villages where you could buy drinks and snacks. We met a couple of other hikers on the way which reassured us we were following the map correctly. The rain started again mid afternoon, which made the steep downhill paths rather slippery and muddy.  However, today we arrived in camp in daylight and set up in the grassy terraces, cut into the hillside by the owner of the campsite.  After a meal of pasta to give us energy, we read our books before dozing off.

We woke up the next morning to bright sunshine. We paid £5 to the campsite owners after an interesting conversation in Spanish and headed off.  Today we were walking 19km downhill, from 3400 metres to 2800 metres above sea level. The path took us through pretty villages, over suspension & rickety wooden bridges, past snow capped mountains and along pretty riverside paths. The sun shone all the way and we really appreciated the locals who were selling water. We reached our final village (La Playa) mid afternoon and planned to set up camp. As we were walking through the main town a collectivo (minibus) pulled up and offered to take us to Saint Theresa.  We had planned to get the bus there the next morning, but he offered us a good deal and promised to take us to a campsite. 

 This turned out to be a great choice because there were hot springs (naturally heated swimming pools) in Saint Theresa and the campsite sold ice cold beer (much to Mr Greenhead's delight).  We spent a couple of hours in the pools soaking our tired muscles and enjoying the feeling of having completed the 60 km Salkantey Trek.  We definitely slept well in our sleeping bags that night.

Another early start the next morning, but this time we were catching a train to Aguas Calientes.  We shared a taxi to the hydroelectrica station and enjoyed a scenic ride through the mountains. Aguas Calientes is a small town than only be reached by train and is the starting point for a trip to Machu Picchu.

 Machu Picchu is the lost Inca city that was built in the 15 century (1400s) and was one of the few Inca cities that the invading Spanish missed when they arrived to conquer South America. Nobody knew about the city until an American historian called Hiram Bingham came across the thickly overgrown ruins in 1911 while being guided by local boy.  The city is built into the hillside, several kilometres above Aguas Calientes.  So early the next morning (5am) we caught a bus to the entry of Machu Picchu and found an English  speaking guide to give us a tour.

 As we entered the ruins, the place was shrouded in cloud and we only got glimpses of the size.  Our guide explained the history of the ruins and the Incas beliefs as we wandered between hill terraces, temples, houses and the main square. Slowly the mist and cloud lifted to reveal an amazing place, which was built to fit perfectly into the hillside. We took lots of photos as we wandered round, then headed up the mountain that over looked Machu Picchu to get an even better view. 

Wayna Picchu is a few hundred metres higher than the Inca city and is reached by  climbing up steps which Inca people put there a few hundred years ago.  They only allow 400 people up the mountain each day, so we had to book a spot and pay extra. The climb took half an hour and was worth it for the impressive view of Machu Picchu. On the way  back down we visited more ruins called Temple of the Moon and Grande Caverna. Then we spent the afternoon relaxing and soaking up the special atmosphere of the ruins.  Sadly the rain clouds started gather, so we caught the bus back and headed for the market to buy a Machu Picchu t-shirt. What a great place and a great day.

The next morning we caught another scenic train to the town of Ollantaytambo and a taxi back to Cusco. We had to change taxis half way because our driver was caught speeding by the police! Then we were back in Cusco for a couple of days seeing the sights. The Cusco cathedral is an impressive sight full of paintings, ornaments and statues. One painting is of the last supper, with a guinea pig being served to Jesus and the disciples.